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Go Home Labor of Love

TRB FEBRUARY 1, 2013

Labor of Love The enforced happiness of Pret A Manger

For a good long while, I let myself think that the slender platinum blonde behind the counter at Pret A Manger was in love with me. How else to explain her visible glow whenever I strolled into the shop for a sandwich or a latte? Then I realized she lit up for the next person in line, and the next. Radiance was her job.

Pret A Manger—a London-based chain that has spread over the past decade to the East Coast and Chicago—is at the cutting edge of what the Berkeley sociologist Arlie Hochschild calls "emotional labor." Emotional because the worker doesn't create or even necessarily sell a product or service so much as make the customer experience a positive feeling. Labor because, as Hochschild wrote in The Managed Heart (1983), the worker must "induce or suppress [his or her own] feeling" to achieve the desired effect in others. Creepy as it sounds, emotional labor is a growing presence in this economy, coming soon to a fast-food outlet near you.

The British journalist Paul Myerscough flagged Pret's reliance on emotional labor in a fascinating recent essay for the London Review of Books. (He called it "affective labor," a phrase borrowed from Marxist scholarship.)1 Pret workers, Myerscough noted, are required to master what the company calls the "Pret Behaviours," which in addition to the usual requirements—courtesy, efficiency, etc.—include "has presence," "creates a sense of fun," and "is happy to be themself" [sic]. (A list of the Pret Behaviours, posted on the company website before the London Review article appeared, has since been removed.)

Pret doesn't merely want its employees to lend their minds and bodies; it wants their souls, too. It will not employ anyone who is "here just for the money." Noting that one Pret worker in London got fired soon after he tried to start a union—the company maintained it was for making homophobic comments—Myerscough suggested the worker's true offense was being unhappy enough to want to start a union, since "Pret workers aren't supposed to be unhappy." The sin commenceth with the thought, not the deed.

Emotional labor is not itself new. Prostitutes have faked orgasms for millennia. With greater sincerity (one hopes), undertakers calm the grieving, nurses comfort the sick, and migrant nannies lavish on other people's children the love they aren't present to furnish back home. Flight attendants, in the pre-feminist era, calmed jittery flyers by being pretty, friendly, even a little bit flirtatious; this ended with deregulation in the early '80s as airlines stopped competing on service and started competing on price.

Pret doesn't merely want its employees to lend their minds and bodies; it wants their souls, too.

In all these instances, emotional labor served (legitimately or not) identifiable emotional needs. That's not true at Pret. Fast-food service is not one of the caring professions. The only imperatives typically addressed in a Pret shop are hunger and thirst. Why must the person who sells me a cheddar and tomato sandwich have "presence" and "create a sense of fun"? Why can't he or she be doing it "just for the money"? I don't expect the swiping of my credit card to be anybody's vocation. This is, after all, the economy's bottommost rung.

Pret keeps its sales clerks in a state of enforced rapture through policies vaguely reminiscent of the old East German Stasi. A "mystery shopper" visits every Pret outlet once a week. If the employee who rings up the sale is appropriately ebullient, then everyone in the shop gets a bonus. If not, nobody does. This system turns peers into enthusiasm cops, further constricting any space for a reserved and private self. And these cops require literal stroking. In other workplaces, touching a co-worker may get you fired, but at Pret you have to worry about not touching co-workers enough. "The first thing I look at," Chief Executive Clive Schlee told The Telegraph last March, "is whether staff are touching each other . . . I can almost predict sales on body language alone."2

In the three decades since Hochschild published The Managed Heart, the emotional economy has spread like a noxious weed to dry cleaners, nail salons, even computer-repair shops. (Think of Apple's Genius Bars—parodied by The Onion as "Friend Bars"—where employees are taught to be empathetic and use words like "feel" as much as possible.) Back when she wrote her book, Hochschild estimated that about one-third of all jobs entailed "substantial demands for emotional labor." Today, she figures it's more like half. This is, among other things, terrible news for men, who (unlike women) are not taught from birth how to make other people happy. Perhaps that explains why men are losing ground in the service economy.

What's driving this growth? Hochschild thinks it partly reflects a class-based change in consumption patterns. As income inequality reorients the consumer marketplace toward luxury services for the rich, like "destination clubs" and "concierge medicine," consumer expectations change and trickle down. The new services "set the standards for lower-cost versions" that cater to the merely affluent. Pret shops are typically located in neighborhoods that bustle with busy professionals whom Pret fusses over like the maître d' at Alain Ducasse. The more the rich get used to fawning service, the more the rest of us—or rather, the rest of us who can afford to buy a sandwich rather than brown-bag it from home—find we rather like it, too. Eventually everybody will have to act like a goddamned concierge. I don't want to believe this, but I fear it may be true.

Why do Pret workers accept the customer's emotional state as their personal responsibility? For some, we may presume an extremely sunny personality that has merely found a serendipitous outlet. (They are selected for this quality, after all.) But what about the rest? In England, the vast majority of Pret workers are foreign immigrants, but that seems less true here. "My only thought," says Harry Holzer, a professor of public policy at Georgetown, "is that it is such a buyer's market in the labor market—because of so many unemployed workers per job—that employers can get away with a lot of demands on their workers that ordinarily wouldn't be possible." In other words—shhhh!—Pret clerks love-bomb customers for the money (which isn't bad by fast-food standards).

Now that I know Pret's slender blonde doesn't love me, I prefer the human contact at a D.C. lunch counter called C.F. Folks. The food is infinitely better. But I also like that the service is slower, the staff is older and grumpier, and the prevailing emotion is "Get over yourself." Try touching someone at C.F. Folks, and you just might get slugged.

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12 comments

i'm reminded of "Of Human Bondage," and glad if C. F. Folks preludes the agonies another author elaborates.

- cdmcl3

February 1, 2013 at 6:13am

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Except in the theater district, NYC doesn't have too many of the "fast casual" family-style restaurants (Applebees, Fridays, Ruby Tuesdays) that otherwise choke sub- and exurbs everywhere else. "Buddy-buddy" service has long infected them all, under the management allegation that it increases tips. Politely decline it all -- your server is either mortified by or long past caring about the special shrimp fondue. p.s., Tim's Really Big [Shew]? 'Til Republicans Bleat? Totally Rad Blog? The Roll Ball?

- Wonderland

February 1, 2013 at 9:55am

Hey! Those comments aren't showing in italics! And the nesting looks better!

- ReganaD

February 1, 2013 at 10:34am

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For some reason I always liked Pret in London, and never had a better-than-average experience in NYC. Maybe that's just because I was in London.

- NotDavidSproat

February 1, 2013 at 12:04pm

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Don't worry, we longtime TNR readers will never expect TNR writers to "act like a goddamned concierge"! Not that there's anything wrong with a helpful concierge........

- bjones

February 1, 2013 at 12:59pm

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The author, being too young and male, doesn't know that once upon a time "emotional labor" was a requirement of all work, no matter its nature, undertaken by women. Deep in the weeds on a data analysis or editing project? Too absorbed in your task to be aware of how distracted and lost in thought, as opposed to sweet, attentive, and absorbed in the needs of others, your facial expression was? No worry, there was always some office co-worker or superior ready to remind you to "Smile." Sometimes that reminder might even be accompanied by a dirty coffee cup placed in the center of your work -- a reminder that your job required not only a happy face, but also the dispensing of womanly servitude and nurture. Like a lot of women of my generation, I was uncomfortable with that -- coerced conduct, in exchange for a paycheck, that I felt more appropriately belonged to my private, genuinely intimate, personal relationships. Serving coffee to my husband, or friends and family in my home, was a freely chosen act of affection and care. Being required to serve coffee to a room full of a co-worker's clients, and smile, smile, smile while I was doing it, was creepy exploitation -- of my most personal, private self. Especially when I was chosen for the task not simply because I was a woman, but, because I was the youngest woman. The middle aged office manager would likely serve coffee to the crowd with more efficiency and a sharper, smarter wit than shy, bumbling me -- but, it wasn't just coffee, as the innuendo in those clients' remarks to me made clear, that I was expected to dispense; it was a kind of attention that was more appreciated from a woman in her early 20s than one past 45. I'm sad to read that this kind of exploitation may be becoming more broadly required (again) -- and demanded of men too. It doesn't only, I think, arise from the fact that employers feel that they can make increased demands on their workers in this market. It also is one more indication (result?) of the continuing destruction of privacy in our culture and an increasing loss of distinction between the private and public self. It confuses, and cheapens, relationships in general, and steals meaning from our private selves and actions, when earning a living, our public life, requires relating to co-workers, and every stranger who flits through the workplace, like a potential lover or intimate friend.

- esmense

February 1, 2013 at 2:44pm

I can tell you that growing up, I preferred the female dental hygienist who merely cleaned my teeth to the male dentist who drilled a hole in them, even though they both were smiling.

- Nusholtz

February 2, 2013 at 7:48am

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There isn't a Pret A Manger in France, is there? I would love to be a fly on the wall if they tried to instruct Parisians in "Pret Behaviors"!

- bjones

February 1, 2013 at 3:52pm

There is at least one, in La Defense, just outside Paris proper. While I haven't eaten there (if you want "Ready to Eat" food in Paris, you buy it from a street vendor, and with some care, it'll be a real treat), and almost certainly never will, I've enjoyed a lovely running commentary from my French colleagues on the place. They didn't approve, but oddly enough, they didn't mind eating at McDo's.

- IowaBeauty

February 1, 2013 at 4:14pm

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Let me offer a small, quasi-dissent. I agree that the sort of thing esmense describes is sexist and inappropriate for the office. I also agree that some of the Pret requirements described here are wrong, even creepy -- an invitation for a lawsuit. Touching? Gimme a break. At the same time, I don't think it's wrong to ask employees in a service industry to behave always in a friendly, courteous manner when dealing with customers. This is "emotional labor." But it's part of the job. I agree with Noah that we don't expect Ritz Carlton-style conduct from fast food cashiers. But, speaking from the consumer's perspective, I increasingly find that the service ethos seems on the wane in places where you *would* expect it -- say, at the department store, on the airplane, in the hotel, in the nice restaurant, etc., places where employees' job consists largely of interaction with the public and providing customers with whatever it is they may want. No, I'm not saying we should go back to the days of flirty stewardesses or something, and I'm not about to defend our current economic structure where non-union service employees get paid peanuts. But, at the same time, one could do without surliness or officiousness or defensiveness or salesman-like aggressiveness or plain neglect. I see nothing wrong as a rule with a company, especially one that *does* compensate employees pretty well (say, an airline), that asks its employees to take on certain service-oriented attitudes or "behaviors."

- JakeH

February 1, 2013 at 5:04pm

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p.s. Almost all jobs that involve dealing with others entail some sort of "emotional labor," some sort of suppression of true feelings. This is just a natural part of social interaction, like being polite. It's not, as such, a threat to individual dignity.

- JakeH

February 1, 2013 at 5:08pm

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"One of the central texts, apparently, is Empire by Antonio Negri and Michael Hardt, published in 2000. Don't ask me what this book says because I don't speak Marxist." Noah's ignorance aside, "Empire" is an excellent analysis of global capitalism in the neoliberal world.

- zuludown

February 2, 2013 at 2:37pm

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PHOTO BY John Li/Getty Images News

1

Specifically, the idea of "affective labor" came from the Italian Autonomists. One of the central texts, apparently, is Empire by Antonio Negri and Michael Hardt, published in 2000. Don't ask me what this book says because I don't speak Marxist.

2

The last thing Schlee looks at, to judge from my own experience, is whether the company returns calls from the press. I phoned Pret HQ twice, twice pushing "0" for "operator," and twice got a recording. I twice left messages saying I was on deadline with a story about Pret, and in the second message I specified that the story was critical. My call was not returned, and I'm not convinced anybody ever even heard my messages. So much for the personal touch.

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